雪芙珑™双疏处理技术的安全性介绍

By 联合微粉

很多朋友都知道,联合微粉的“雪芙珑”双疏处理粉末,核心成分是一种氟硅烷:全氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷。虽然“雪芙珑”是性能非常好的化妆品粉末,但是还是有不少朋友担心:“氟”好像是一个很化学的成分啊,安全吗?对人体有危害吗?下面小编就为各位朋友一一道来:

氟和氟化物

氟是一种非金属化学元素,化学符号F,原子序数9。氟是卤族元素之一,属周期系ⅦA族,在元素周期表中位于第二周期。

氟元素的单质是F2,化学性质极为活泼,是氧化性最强的物质之一,所以单质氟元素几乎不可能在自然界稳定的存在;相对应的,氟化合物中,氟与其他元素形成的化学键非常强,绝大多数氟化物性质非常稳定。

氟是自然界分布最广泛的元素之一。在地壳元素存在量的排行中,氟位列第13位。可以说氟无处不在,岩石和土壤、植物、水、大气都含有氟。同样,人体各组织中也都含有氟,但主要积聚在我们的牙齿和骨筋中。

其实大家大可不必“谈氟色变”,我们每天喝的茶叶、吃的海鲜,甚至每一口呼吸,都会摄入氟。适当的氟是人体所必需的,氟能帮助我们防龋、参与骨骼代谢、促进机体生长发育、维护其他正常生理功能的生理需要。

人体中氟的来源主要有:饮水(占氟来源65%)和食物(占25%)。

丰富来源     海味和茶叶
良好来源     沙丁鱼、虾、大马哈鱼等鱼类
一般来源     大豆,鸡蛋、牛肉、菠菜等
微量来源     猪肉、小麦等
其他来源     空气、含氟牙膏、漱口液

目前氟化物在冶金、电器、影像医学、医药、密封、农药等领域有广泛的应用。例如:现代制药20%的新药品类含氟。

001氟化物在我们日常生活中也很多应用,例如:特富龙不粘炊具、Gore Tex科技冲锋衣/鞋子、3M公司防尘过滤器、思高日用品……不胜枚举。氟元素是国际公认的强健骨骼、预防龋齿的有效成分,被广泛的添加到牙膏里面,起到减少龋齿的良好作用。

002氟化物的安全性

问题来了,既然我们日常生活中的水源、食物甚至空气中都含有必要的氟元素,那么近年来欧美等发达国家限制、禁止的部分全氟化合物又是哪些呢?

首先我们要理解,氟元素和其他微量元素一样是人体是不可或缺的组成成分,但是过量摄入也会造成危害。一般人对氟的总摄入量由每日空气、水、膳食等摄入构成。安全摄氟量(人体最大能接受的量)为0.05-0.07mg/kg 体重,一般每人每日从饮水和食物中摄取微量元素氟大约在2. 3-3. 1毫克之间,既能满足人体每日的需要,又不致引起慢性中毒。

其次,根据近期欧盟委员会发布G/TBT/N/EU/411号技术性贸易措施通报,欧盟将全面禁止全氟辛酸(PFOA)及其盐的生产和上市。任何物质、混合物或物品中的PFOA及其盐的含量不得超过25ug/kg(ppb),并且所含的PFOA关联物质的含量不得超过1000 ppb。这里要注意的是,仅仅是禁止全氟辛酸(PFOA)及其盐的生产和上市,并不株连其他的氟化物哦!

因为在含氟的表面活性剂中,当C-F链的C原子数≥8时,会产生全氟烷基磷酸(PFPAs)、全氟辛酸(PFOA)、全氟辛烷磺酸(PFOS)。这三种全氟化合物简称为“C8”,均具有持久性、生物累积性,均会对哺乳动物和水生生物产生毒性。【1】但是,只要将F-C链的长度缩短到“C6”、“C4”,即可避免上述三种化合物。【2】

【1】徐博阳,新型全氟化合物——全氟烷基磷酸对环境影响的研究综述[J],环境监控与预警,第5卷(05),2013(10).【2】庄华炜,译,可替代C8氟碳化合物的耐久拒水剂[J],摘译自英国《国际染印漂整工作者》,14-16,2014(4).

联合微粉的氟化物

经过调查对比,联合微粉最终选用的表面改性剂为“C6”氟硅烷偶联剂。INCI名:全(十三)氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷(Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane),分子式C14H19F13O3Si

虽然在最新国际化妆品原料标准中文名称目录中,其INCI名写的是全氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷,但该原料实际只有十三个氟,并非严格意义上的全氟化合物。下图氟碳链(红色方框部分)和硅烷氧基(蓝色方框)之间的两个碳原子上面仍然有四个氢原子未被取代。



上图可以看出,右侧的硅烷氧基极易水解变成活泼的硅醇,与基材表面的-OH、-COOH及含氧基团发生化学反应。左侧的氟代烷基链上有5个-CF2,并由一个-CF3封端,表面自由能超低,使处理过的粉体也具有极低的表面能,不易被润湿。F-C链为6个C原子,没有释放具有潜在刺激性的全氟辛酸PFOA的风险,所以安全性更高,不会对人体产生毒性及环境问题。



由于氟硅烷通过化学键合到颜料表面,所以能提供一种稳定的环境,避免表面处理被除去。氟硅烷表面处理能避免颜料集聚在细纹和皱纹中,同时也有助于颜料在皮肤表面很好地铺展和贴合在皮肤表面,即使遇到皮脂和水时也能保持持久性。

联合微粉所使用的是德国赢创的化妆品级(最高等级)十三氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷, 其提供的MSDS毒理性和致癌风险栏中,也明确表明目前未有实验证实该成分会对人体致癌。且动物刺激性测试结果表明不会对皮肤造成刺激,请放心使用。

市面上使用这支氟化物的彩妆产品

作为在化妆品行业的一支新型有机硅材料,目前十三氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷(Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane)在国外已广泛使用在彩妆产品中,且效果非常好。下面我们为您主要介绍几家在配方中使用这一原料的知名品牌,以下资料来源通过英敏特mintel查询,供您参考。

欧莱雅L’Oréal Nude 5 in 1 BB Cream004

004Ingredients:aqua (water), isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane, glycerin, cyclohexasiloxane, PEG-10 dimethicone, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, butylene glycol, dimethicone, isoeicosane, disteardimonium hectorite, acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, phenoxyethanol, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, boron nitride, sodium chloride, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, isostearyl neopentanoate, caprylyl glycol, methylparaben, parfum (fragrance), triethyl citrate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, tocopherol, panthenol, polymethyl methacrylate, aluminum hydroxide, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, magnesium stearate, limonene, alumina, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, +/- may contain (CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), CI 77163 (bismuth oxychloride)), F.I.L. B183657/1

兰蔻Lancôme Brightening Compact Foundation Refill SPF 35/PA+++



Ingredients:Talc, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, titanium dioxide, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, nylon-12, polymethyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, dimethicone, zinc oxide, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, sorbitan sesquioleate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, Rosa centifolia extract/Rosa centifolia flower extract, aqua (water), glyceryl isostearate, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, methicone, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, perlite, palmitic acid, palmitoyl proline, aluminum hydroxide, phenylethyl resorcinol, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, carnosine, alcohol, ascorbyl glucoside, propylene glycol, hydrated silica, hydrogen dimethicone, hydrogenated palm oil, caprylyl glycol, lauroyl lysine, maltodextrin, Centella asiatica extract, Gentiana lutea extract/Gentiana lutea root extract, pentylene glycol, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, tocopherol, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, linalool, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, parfum (fragrance), +/- may contain (CI 15850 (red 7), CI 42090 (blue 1 lake), CI 45410 (red 28 lake), CI 77007 (ultramarines), CI 77163 (bismuth oxychloride), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), mica), F.I.L. B178517/1

美宝莲 Ultra Breathable Satin Two Way Cake SPF 32 PA+++

006

Ingredients:talc, synthetic fluorphlogopite, nylon-12, titanium dioxide, dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, zinc oxide, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, sorbitan sesquioleate, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, lauroyl lysine, hydrogen dimethicone, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, methicone, hydrogenated palm oil, aluminium hydroxide, +/- may contain (mica, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)), F.I.L. B165640/1

芭比波朗Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Corrector




HR赫莲娜Helena Rubinstein Compact Foundation SPF 30/PA+++ Refill


Ingredients: water, dimethicone, isopentyldiol, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, phenyl trimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, PEG-10 dimethicone, glycine, rhodochrosite extract, polysilicone-11, polymethylsilsesquioxane, lecithin, disteardimonium hectorite, hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, sodium chloride, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, hexyl laurate, Coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract, caprylic/capric triglyceride, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, EDTA-2Na, Cordyceps sinensis extract, Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, laureth-7, butylene glycol, Gentiana lutea extract, Commiphora mukul resin extract, Sasa kurilensis water, artemia extract, linoleic acid, Humulus lupulus (hop) extract, sodium hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tocopherol, linolenic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, +/- may contain (titanium dioxide, iron oxides, bismuth oxychloride, mica, carmine, CI 19140, CI 42090, manganese violet), JILN7013



Ingredients: talc, synthetic fluorphlogopite, nylon-12, titanium dioxide, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, zinc oxide, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, sorbitan sesquioleate, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, linalool, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, parfum (fragrance), methicone, alpha-isomethyl ionone, aluminum hydroxide, Eryngium maritimum extract, limonene, caprylyl glycol, lauroyl lysine, hydrogen dimethicone, hydrogenated palm oil, Crithmum maritimum extract, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, +/- may contain (CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), mica), F.I.L B167090/1

倩碧Powder Makeup for Face SPF 30



Ingredients: talc, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polymethyl methacrylate, silica, acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate crosspolymer, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, dimethicone, petrolatum, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, butylene glycol, palmitoyl proline, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, isocetyl myristate, hydrogen dimethicone, methicone, lauroyl lysine, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, caprylyl glycol, microcrystalline cellulose, tocopheryl acetate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, silica dimethyl silylate, triethoxycaprylylsilane, aluminium distearate, aluminium hydroxide, tin oxide, palmitic acid, hexylene glycol, hydroxyapatite, aluminium chloride, phenoxyethanol, +/- may contain (mica, zinc oxide (CI 77947), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77491, CI 77499)), ILN42047

雅芳AVON UV Liquid Foundation EX SPF 50+/PA++++



Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethanol, trimethylsiloxysilicate, benzophenone-3, silica, water, methicone, methylparaben, cellulose, propylparaben, HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, disteardimonium hectorite, PEG-12 dimethicone, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, squalane, stearic acid, triethoxycaprylylsilane, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, cellulose, nylon-6, butylene glycol, Gentiana lutea root extract, hydroxyapatite, hydrolyzed collagen, stannous oxide, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, +/- may contain (titanium dioxide, iron oxides, talc, mica, aluminum hydroxide, dimethicone)

安娜苏Anna Sui Face & Body Powder



Ingredients: water, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, butylene glycol, dimethicone, silica silylate, talc, agar, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Rosa centifolia flower water, aluminum hydroxide, Rosa multiflora fruit extract, pearl powder, hydrolyzed silk, TEA, silica, sucrose, triethoxycaprylylsilane, hydrogen dimethicone,perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methicone, locust bean gum, hydrated silica, microcrystalline cellulose, methylparaben, fragrance, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxides

宝丽Pola The Powdery Foundation

Ingredients: Talc, barium sulfate, dimethicone, silica, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrogenated polydecene, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diisostearyl malate, alumina, trimethoxysilyl dimethicone, polyurethane-15, methylparaben, aluminum hydroxide, water (aqua), butylene glycol, hydrated silica, zinc stearate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, hydrogen dimethicone, fragrance (parfum), tocopherol, alcohol, magnesium myristate, aluminum chloride, Centella asiatica extract, ectoin, glycogen, oryzanol, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, sodium polyacrylate, BHT, Astragalus sinicus extract, Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, phenoxyethanol, polyvinyl alcohol, triethylhexanoin, Eugenia caryophyllus (clove) flower extract, Equisetum arvense extract, Luffa cylindrica fruit/leaf/stem extract, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax (cera microcristallina), Sophora angustifolia root extract, Coptis japonica root extract, Hypericum perforatum flower/leaf/stem extract, +/- may contain (titanium dioxide (CI 77891), mica (CI 77019), iron oxides (CI 77492), iron oxides (CI 77491), iron oxides (CI 77499)

苏菲娜Sofina Primavista Long Keep UV Base

日本花王旗下的苏菲娜主营药妆,其Primavista系列妆前乳,是入围日本cosme大赏的殿堂级产品,也连续5年在日销售额排名NO.1人气产品,因其核心成分,十三氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷具有疏水疏油的特性,可以提供持续定妆10个小时以上效果,深受消费者喜爱。


还有很多已经使用在彩妆成品中的案例,这边就不一一复述了。您也可以去这个日本网站搜索该成分。

http://www.cosmetic-info.jp/jcln/search.php

含有这一成分的彩妆品高达1000多件,覆盖彩妆粉底液、散粉、BB霜、妆前乳、口红、指甲油等。

结束语

这次调查发现,全球彩妆市场中使用全氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷(PERFLUOROOCTYL TRIETHOXYSILANE)主要还是在欧洲和部分东南亚国家(主日韩),且都取得了很好的市场反映。很遗憾,中国目前尚未有太多品牌的彩妆在使用这一原料,产品应用领域还是一篇空白。联合微粉秉承为您严格挑选安全可靠,效果卓越的高品质化妆品类原料,在这里我们向您推荐十三氟辛基三乙氧基硅烷处理的雪芙珑™双疏粉末/粉浆系列。

目前,这一表面处理技术联合微粉已获得国家专利授权。作为国内高端化妆品粉末原料的供应商,我们相信所呈现的粉底将给您带来无与伦比的丝滑肤感和一整天不脱妆的美妙体验。在目前国内市场中尚未有品牌使用的情况下,不妨是一个很好的打开国内消费者市场的好时机。这一新品也将在本次2017PCHI展会的新品展示柜中展出,欢迎前来现场参观试用。如果您有任何技术方面的疑问或者感兴趣的地方,欢迎和我们销售工程师联系,免费试用样品。