"Silicone-free" has increasingly become a formulation-oriented positioning associated with simplified compositions, a lower sensory burden, and more sustainability-conscious product concepts. In recent years, this direction has gradually evolved from a marketing concept into a distinct formulation pathway in base makeup development.
This shift is driven partly by changing consumer preferences toward lightweight, skin-adherent finishes and skincare-oriented makeup performance, and partly by the growing influence of current regulatory trends and sustainability-related considerations.
In practical formulation development, "silicone-free base makeup" generally refers to formulations that do not incorporate silicone-based materials, such as:
· Volatile silicones (e.g., D4/D5) — provide rapid spreadability and a lightweight skin feel.
· Linear silicone oils (e.g., Dimethicone) — provide lubrication and a smooth, silky touch.
· Silicone elastomers — provide soft-focus effects, line-blurring performance, and structural support.
The reduction of these materials is not driven by a single factor, but rather by the combined influence of multiple considerations.
On one hand, certain cyclic siloxanes (such as D4/ D5) have already been restricted or remain under ongoing evaluation in specific application scenarios, leading brands to proactively avoid potential regulatory uncertainties during formulation development.
On the other hand, amid growing trends toward sustainability-oriented positioning and simplified ingredient systems, reducing the use of silicones also helps align formulation strategies with evolving market expectations.
From a formulation perspective, therefore, “silicone-free” is not simply about removing a single ingredient, but about deliberately moving away from an entire mature system for sensory modification and structural regulation.
Once this system is removed, formulation challenges quickly become apparent:
· Reduced powder dispersibility, with a higher tendency toward agglomeration.
· Increased drag during application, resulting in poorer spreadability.
· Reduced smoothness and refinement of the makeup finish.
· Decreased makeup wear performance and stability.
For this reason, the real challenge of silicone-free systems has never been whether silicones can be removed, but whether the formulation can still maintain a stable and functional system in their absence.
From Oil Phase Replacement to Powder Selection
Early silicone-free formulation attempts were primarily focused on oil phase substitution — using ester oils, hydrocarbons, or plant-derived oil systems to compensate for the slip and spreadability traditionally provided by silicones.
However, formulation practice has shown that while the oil phase can be replaced, interfacial challenges cannot simply be transferred elsewhere. Without the interfacial regulation capability provided by silicones, the performance of powders becomes significantly more critical:
Can the powders be easily dispersed?
Are they compatible with the overall formulation system?
Can they deliver a sufficiently smooth, skin-adherent feel?
As a result, the key variable in silicone-free systems has gradually shifted from the oil phase to the powder phase.
The Changing Role of Powders: From Passive Carriers to Adaptive Materials
In silicone-containing systems, powders are largely “carried” by the oil phase. In silicone-free systems, however, powders are required to possess a much stronger degree of self-adaptability.
This shift has also driven powder development beyond conventional particle size and morphology control toward more advanced surface and interfacial engineering.
By tailoring powder surface properties, formulators aim to maintain good dispersibility and desirable sensory performance even in the absence of silicones — an approach that has become one of the key development directions in silicone-free base makeup formulations today.
MG Series: Reconstructing the Powder Interface
Based on this formulation approach, the MG series pigment series introduces an amino acid-derived structure on top of conventional inorganic surface treatment technology, enabling a redesigned powder interface.
At the core of this approach is a more skin-compatible amino acid biomimetic structure.
The outer surface treatment of the MG series is derived from amino acid-related structures and exhibits a high degree of similarity to the free amino acids found in skin — key components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Through this skin-inspired structural design, the powders do not merely remain on the skin surface upon application, but are able to establish a more compatible interfacial interaction with the skin environment.
This compatibility is achieved through the synergistic design of two structural aspects:
On one hand, the amino acid backbone provides a “homologous foundation”.
Its molecular structure resembles the skin’s natural moisturizing components, allowing the powders to spread more naturally across the skin surface while reducing powderiness and visible boundary effects.
On the other hand, the structure is further extended through a “biomimetic modification”.
By introducing long-chain fatty groups, the powder surface is enveloped in a biomimetic layer that retains the moisture-affinity characteristics of amino acids while imparting a smoother, more skin-adherent sensory feel.
Based on this structural design strategy, the MG series demonstrates more stable and balanced performance within silicone-free systems, including:
· Improved dispersibility
· Enhanced spreadability
· Better skin adherence
· Increased smoothness and refinement
· Improved makeup wear and anti-dullness performance
These performance improvements are not the result of isolated optimizations, but rather the synergistic outcome of interfacial compatibility engineering.
The next stage of silicone-free systems lies in establishing a new formulation balance.
As the industry shifts from asking whether formulations can be silicone-free to how silicone-free systems can be effectively achieved, formulation logic itself is evolving.
In the past, silicones served as the central medium linking system stability with sensory performance. Today, however, this role is being redefined and redistributed across different materials and structural designs. Within this transition, powders are no longer merely functional units for color and coverage, but are increasingly becoming key determinants of overall system performance.
What the MG series offers is not simply compatibility with silicone-free systems, but a new formulation perspective — one that rebuilds the relationship between powders, formulations, and skin through a structure designed to more closely resemble the skin itself.
About UNI-POWDER
UNI-POWDER, a subsidiary of Cofun Group, is a China-originated, globally oriented, one of the leading providers of high-quality cosmetic powder ingredient solutions. Since its founding in 2010, we have consistently upheld a customer-centric and market-driven approach, focusing on continuous innovation and research. We are committed to delivering one-stop cosmetic solutions from raw materials to formulations, covering UV filters, makeup, skincare, and functional ingredients, and customized powder services.
Guided by diligence, pragmatism, and a pursuit of excellence — our enduring “Powder Philosophy”— we aspire for every confident makeup look to benefit from UNI-POWDER.
Post time: May-26-2026